What Is Appliqué? How Do You Appliqué Like a Pro?

Appliqué is a sewing technique where pieces of fabric are attached to a larger fabric to create designs or patterns.

This guide will walk you through everything you need—from the basics and the tools to step-by-step instructions for creating your pieces.

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How to Applique? (Methods Overview)

Imagine you have a plain T-shirt and want to jazz it up. Appliqué is like adding stickers to your shirt but way more stylistic and permanent.

Here is how it works:

  1. You cut out a fun shape from another piece of fabric – maybe a heart, a star, or a dinosaur!
  2. Then, stick that shape onto your t-shirt using special glue or sewing it on.

Voila! Your boring old shirt now has an awesome design.

Raw Edge Appliqué:

A fabric with frayed edges sewn onto a quilt block.
Raw Edge Appliqué

In Raw Edge Appliqué, fabric shapes are cut and stitched directly onto a base fabric without turning the edges under.

How to Raw Edge Appliqué:

  1. Cut your appliqué shapes from the fabric of your choice.
  2. Position the shapes on your base fabric as desired.
  3. Use a straight, zigzag , or another decorative stitch to sew around the edges, securing the appliqué to the base fabric.

The raw edges will fray once the fabric is washed or used, creating a homemade, textured appearance.

Uses:

  • Raw Edge Appliqué is great for a whimsical or rustic touch to quilts, bags, and clothing.

Turned Edge Appliqué:

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In Turned Edge Appliqué, the edges of a shape are tucked before being stitched to the base fabric.

How to Turned Edge Appliqué:

  1. Cut your fabric shapes, adding a small seam allowance around the edges.
  2. Fold and press the seam allowance under to hide the raw edges.
  3. Position the shapes on your base fabric.
  4. Stitch around the edges, either by hand with a slip stitch or machine, to secure the appliqué.

Uses:

Fusible Appliqué:

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In Fusible Appliqué, a flexible web or adhesive holds the appliqué fabric to the base fabric.

How to Fusible Appliqué:

  1. Apply fusible web to the back of your appliqué fabric.
  2. Cut out your shapes.
  3. Position the shapes on your base fabric.
  4. Fuse them in place using an iron.
  5. Stitch around the edges to secure the appliqué, using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or decorative stitch.

Benefit:

Reverse Appliqué:

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In Reverse Appliqué, the design is cut from the top layer of fabric.

How to Reverse Appliqué:

  1. Layer the top fabric over the base fabric.
  2. Cut out your design from the top fabric, exposing the base fabric underneath.
  3. Turn under the raw edges of the cut-out shape.
  4. Stitch around the edges to secure the top fabric to the base fabric.

Uses:

Needle-Turn Appliqué:

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In Needle-Turn Appliqué, the edges of the fabric are turned under with the needle as you sew.

How to Needle-Turn Appliqué:

  1. Place your fabric shape on the base fabric.
  2. Use the needle to tuck the raw edges under as you sew around the shape with a fine, almost invisible stitch.
  3. Continue working around the entire shape, turning the edges under gradually.

Uses:

Machine Appliqué:

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Machine Appliqué involves using a sewing machine to stitch around the edges of the appliqué shapes.

How to Machine Appliqué:

  1. Position the appliqué shapes on your base fabric.
  2. Choose a stitch type (zigzag, satin, blanket stitch, or couching) and set your sewing machine accordingly.
  3. Stitch around the edges of each shape, ensuring the appliqué is securely attached to the base fabric.

Uses:

  • Machine appliqué is best for quickly adding appliqué designs to quilts and clothing where durability and speed are needed.

Shadow Appliqué:

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In Shadow Appliqué, the shape is stitched with a sheer or semi-transparent fabric.

How to Shadow Appliqué:

  1. Position the appliqué shapes on the base fabric.
  2. Place a sheer fabric, like organza, over the top.
  3. Stitch around the edges of the shapes, securing them to both the base and the sheer fabric.
  4. Trim away any excess sheer fabric, leaving a small margin around the edges.

Uses:

Stained Glass Appliqué:

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Stained Glass Appliqué mimics the look of stained glass by sewing black bias tape over the edges of appliqué shapes.

How to Stained Glass Appliqué:

  1. Cut out your appliqué shapes and position them on the base fabric.
  2. Stitch the shapes down using your preferred method.
  3. Sew black bias tape over the edges of each shape.

Uses:

Inside-Out Appliqué:

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Inside-out Appliqué involves sewing two fabrics together with the right sides facing each other and then cutting out the shape of the appliqué.

How to Inside-Out Appliqué:

  1. Place the appliqué fabric and base fabric together.
  2. Stitch along the outline of the shape you want to appliqué, leaving a small gap.
  3. Cut out the shape, leaving a small seam allowance.
  4. Turn the shape inside out through the gap.
  5. Press the shape flat and close the gap with a small hand stitch.
  6. Secure the appliqué to the base fabric with additional stitching if necessary.

Uses:

Appliqué for Stems and Vines:

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In this appliquéing, stems or vines are stitched onto the base fabric in curved or straight lines to represent stems or vines.

How to Appliqué Stems and Vines:

  • Bias Tape Method: Cut bias strips of fabric (fabric cut on the diagonal) to make them more flexible for curves.
  • Fold and press the strips in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.
  • Position the strip on your base fabric, following the desired path for the stem or vine.
  • Stitch the folded strip down along both edges, securing it to the fabric.
  • Alternatively, you can use pre-made bias tape for a quicker option.
  • Freehand Method: Draw the path of the stem or vine on the fabric. Then, either use a needle-turn or a raw edge method to attach the stem fabric along the drawn line.

Uses:

  • This method is best for floral and botanical designs.

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