Appliqué is a sewing technique where pieces of fabric are attached to a larger fabric to create designs or patterns.
This guide will walk you through everything you need—from the basics and the tools to step-by-step instructions for creating your pieces.
How to Applique? (Methods Overview)
Imagine you have a plain T-shirt and want to jazz it up. Appliqué is like adding stickers to your shirt but way more stylistic and permanent.
Here is how it works:
- You cut out a fun shape from another piece of fabric – maybe a heart, a star, or a dinosaur!
- Then, stick that shape onto your t-shirt using special glue or sewing it on.
Voila! Your boring old shirt now has an awesome design.
Raw Edge Appliqué:
In Raw Edge Appliqué, fabric shapes are cut and stitched directly onto a base fabric without turning the edges under.
How to Raw Edge Appliqué:
- Cut your appliqué shapes from the fabric of your choice.
- Position the shapes on your base fabric as desired.
- Use a straight, zigzag , or another decorative stitch to sew around the edges, securing the appliqué to the base fabric.
The raw edges will fray once the fabric is washed or used, creating a homemade, textured appearance.
Uses:
- Raw Edge Appliqué is great for a whimsical or rustic touch to quilts, bags, and clothing.
Turned Edge Appliqué:
In Turned Edge Appliqué, the edges of a shape are tucked before being stitched to the base fabric.
How to Turned Edge Appliqué:
- Cut your fabric shapes, adding a small seam allowance around the edges.
- Fold and press the seam allowance under to hide the raw edges.
- Position the shapes on your base fabric.
- Stitch around the edges, either by hand with a slip stitch or machine, to secure the appliqué.
Uses:
- Turned Edge Appliqué is Best for heirloom-quality quilts and detailed clothing embellishments.
Fusible Appliqué:
In Fusible Appliqué, a flexible web or adhesive holds the appliqué fabric to the base fabric.
How to Fusible Appliqué:
- Apply fusible web to the back of your appliqué fabric.
- Cut out your shapes.
- Position the shapes on your base fabric.
- Fuse them in place using an iron.
- Stitch around the edges to secure the appliqué, using a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, or decorative stitch.
Benefit:
- Fusible Appliqué is quick, easy, and ideal for beginners.
Reverse Appliqué:
In Reverse Appliqué, the design is cut from the top layer of fabric.
How to Reverse Appliqué:
- Layer the top fabric over the base fabric.
- Cut out your design from the top fabric, exposing the base fabric underneath.
- Turn under the raw edges of the cut-out shape.
- Stitch around the edges to secure the top fabric to the base fabric.
Uses:
- Reverse Appliqué is suitable for traditional folk art and contemporary quilting.
Needle-Turn Appliqué:
In Needle-Turn Appliqué, the edges of the fabric are turned under with the needle as you sew.
How to Needle-Turn Appliqué:
- Place your fabric shape on the base fabric.
- Use the needle to tuck the raw edges under as you sew around the shape with a fine, almost invisible stitch.
- Continue working around the entire shape, turning the edges under gradually.
Uses:
- Needle-Turn Appliqué is best for detailed quilts and complex clothing embellishments.
Machine Appliqué:
Machine Appliqué involves using a sewing machine to stitch around the edges of the appliqué shapes.
How to Machine Appliqué:
- Position the appliqué shapes on your base fabric.
- Choose a stitch type (zigzag, satin, blanket stitch, or couching) and set your sewing machine accordingly.
- Stitch around the edges of each shape, ensuring the appliqué is securely attached to the base fabric.
Uses:
- Machine appliqué is best for quickly adding appliqué designs to quilts and clothing where durability and speed are needed.
Shadow Appliqué:
In Shadow Appliqué, the shape is stitched with a sheer or semi-transparent fabric.
How to Shadow Appliqué:
- Position the appliqué shapes on the base fabric.
- Place a sheer fabric, like organza, over the top.
- Stitch around the edges of the shapes, securing them to both the base and the sheer fabric.
- Trim away any excess sheer fabric, leaving a small margin around the edges.
Uses:
- Shadow Appliqué is best for heirloom sewing and baby clothing.
Stained Glass Appliqué:
Stained Glass Appliqué mimics the look of stained glass by sewing black bias tape over the edges of appliqué shapes.
How to Stained Glass Appliqué:
- Cut out your appliqué shapes and position them on the base fabric.
- Stitch the shapes down using your preferred method.
- Sew black bias tape over the edges of each shape.
Uses:
- Stained Glass Appliqué is best for creating dramatic, eye-catching designs in quilts or wall hangings.
Inside-Out Appliqué:
Inside-out Appliqué involves sewing two fabrics together with the right sides facing each other and then cutting out the shape of the appliqué.
How to Inside-Out Appliqué:
- Place the appliqué fabric and base fabric together.
- Stitch along the outline of the shape you want to appliqué, leaving a small gap.
- Cut out the shape, leaving a small seam allowance.
- Turn the shape inside out through the gap.
- Press the shape flat and close the gap with a small hand stitch.
- Secure the appliqué to the base fabric with additional stitching if necessary.
Uses:
- Inside-Out Appliqué is ideal for creating clean, smooth edges on intricate shapes.
Appliqué for Stems and Vines:
In this appliquéing, stems or vines are stitched onto the base fabric in curved or straight lines to represent stems or vines.
How to Appliqué Stems and Vines:
- Bias Tape Method: Cut bias strips of fabric (fabric cut on the diagonal) to make them more flexible for curves.
- Fold and press the strips in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.
- Position the strip on your base fabric, following the desired path for the stem or vine.
- Stitch the folded strip down along both edges, securing it to the fabric.
- Alternatively, you can use pre-made bias tape for a quicker option.
- Freehand Method: Draw the path of the stem or vine on the fabric. Then, either use a needle-turn or a raw edge method to attach the stem fabric along the drawn line.
Uses:
- This method is best for floral and botanical designs.